At the recommendation of my spiritual father, I have been watching two exceptional documentaries on monastic life: Athos – Mount Athos Monks’ Republic Documentary and The Good Struggle: Life In A Secluded Orthodox Monastery. Interestingly enough, I found all their insights pertinent not only to monastics, but to laymen too. What truly struck a chord in my heart was their emphasis on the transience and ‘futility’ of our ‘ordinary’ lives, and a remarkable miracle entitled “Christ is Risen”, the first documentary records.
Athos,the first documentary is exceptional partly because for the first time, a filmmaker was given access to all forms of monastic life on the holy mountain (ie. cenobitic monasteries, sketes and monastic cells).
The Good Struggle, the second documentary, is about a monastic community thriving within the confines of a Greek Orthodox Christian monastery, high up in the mountains of Lebanon. The documentary offers rare insight to their almost silent way of life.
What I found most moving in both documentaries is the “school of philosophy” in the Gerondes’ own words: the insights into the monks’ burial place, their bones eventually stored in a separate charnel house, within the consecrated grounds of the cemetery (20:06–21:28 and 1:25:38—1:28:10 — first documentary), or under the church (23:35–24:36 –second documentary).
“So we can always pray for them and join them. This is due to the church’s belief that those who depart are not removed from us, but we are always connected through prayer. We don’t see them but they are connected to us through prayer. They pray for us and we pray for them. We always visit them to encourage ourselves that death is not a calamity but a meeting with the Lord Jesus Christ. We honour and greet them because they have done the good struggle and God has accepted them in His Kingdom.”
So moving and at the same time so sobering for “our [vain] affection for earthly things”! “And once again I looked with attention on the tombs, and I saw the bones therein which of flesh were naked; and I said, … Where is the pleasure in life which is unmixed with sorrow? … All things are weaker than shadow, all more illusive than dreams; comes one fell stroke, and Death in turn, prevails over all these vanities.… All is dust, all is ashes, all is shadow. … Like a blossom that wastes away, and like a dream that passes and is gone, so is every mortal into dust resolved… ” (St. John of Damascus, Orthodox Funeral Service Troparia)
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Christ is Risen! He is Risen Indeed!
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(*) “Sisoes, the great ascetic, before the tomb of Alexander, king of the Greeks, who was once covered in glory. Astonished, he mourns for the vicissitudes of Time and the transience of glory, and tearfully declaims thus: ‘The mere sight of your tomb, dismays me and causes my heart to shed tears, as I contemplate the debt we, all men, owe. How can I possibly stand it? Oh Death! Who can evade you?’
Nothing had prepared me for what happened today at the monastery. Mother Porfyria had texted me back at night that, God willing, we would meet briefly today, sometime before we leave. In turn, I had texted my spiritual father for his prayers to help me discern what to discuss with her in these precious, few minutes. His reply: “Let Christ decide. He will be there with you”.
And yet, nothing had prepared me for what happened today at the monastery. I remember that this is what I had told you at my first monastery pilgrimage, at Panorama Dormition Monastery, but this time the spiritual experience was far more powerful, overwhelming I would say.
Such beautiful chanting in Church! Listen to a recording of sisters chanting Matins, Semantron and Bells:
After the Holy Liturgy, I went straight to St George Karslidis cell and chapel, open to the faithful only on Feast Days and Sundays, thinking that Mother Porfyria would rest a bit after these long church services, before venturing out in the public. She is so loved by the sisters and all the faithful that there is always a long queue following her wherever she is going. Here one feels what joyful obedience out of love is.
Saint George Karslides cell
And then, it happened! When I emerged out of St George Karslidis cell, I saw her! but what did I see?! I saw Gerondissa climbing up the stairs of the guests’ house in a hurry and ‘frantically’ searching for me everywhere, checking the guests’ living room, and ignoring everybody else! I rushed towards her and asked her to forgive my disappearance, but I thought she might rest a bit. Are you kidding me? Mother Porphyria rest a bit? How little do I still know her! No sleep, no rest, no ease, no break-fast, no coffee, nothing for her sake, only burning herself as a candle, always full of love and humility, always ready to sacrifice everything for her ‘neighbour!
If we burn ourselves up as a candle, we become lights in the world.
It was so embarrassing for me! I must have scandalised all the pilgrims and the sisters in the monastery! First this frantic search, and then this grabbing me and ‘pushing’ me further and further behind the inner gates, since pilgrims and sisters never stopped approaching her, literally disappearing and returning after half an hour! Half an hour?! So, the Abbess disappeared for half an hour at the monastery’s busiest visitors’ time, after the Sunday Holy Liturgy, with the monastery literally packed, overflowing with people?!
What’s more, not for 5 min but for half an hour, all alone, listening to her precious spiritual counsel! What a blessing! And what a profound spiritual encounter ours was! Mother Porphyria reflected on our “common” Way of the Cross, dating back to 1988, at our visit to Sipsa monastery, both of us lay persons then, both of us spiritual daughters of + Gerondas Gregorios. Such a beautiful synaxis after so many years! She insisted how our first meeting sealed our future in God’s unfathomable Providence. Back at this time, she was exploring various monasteries with the desire to become a nun, while I was visiting various monasteries for my spiritual growth, before my graduate studies and work at the States. This first meeting dates back to the Pentecost Feast of 1988. Our 36 years anniversary in her words!
Providence brought us to the same monastery, with the blessing of +Gerondas Gregorios, and the following amusing misunderstanding happened then: because I arrived earlier than Mother Porphyria, the sisters at Sipsa monastery thought that I was the one interested to become a novice. So they offered me a single room to have more “space” and privacy to pray. When Mother Porphyria arrived, the sisters understood their mistake but because they did not want to upset me and have me change room, they left me all alone, at peace, and accommodated Mother Porphyria in a double room. Of course, I was clueless about all this, and when I met her, later in the day, at the services and the meals, she did not give anything away. To this day, she finds all this very funny!
Glory to God for all His gifts, especially our fellow travellers in the Way! Mother Porphyria stressed how important is to be always grateful, how God loves those who are grateful. Our faith and life is literally eucharistic. Glory to God for all things were Saint John Chrysostom. last words as he died in exile in the year 407. The word “Eucharist” is derived from the Greek word eucharistia, meaning ‘thanksgiving. This term originated in the 1st or 2nd century A.D. as early Christians commemorated Christ’s Last Supper with thanksgiving. Such thanksgiving inspires and empowers us to act in humble, loving, compassionate ways, with empathy and in service to others.
She also told me that gratitude and total surrender to God will make us fools for Christ and full in His Joy. Galatians 2:20 speaks to the profound change that occurs when we surrender to God: “I have been crucified with Christ and I no longer live, but Christ lives in me. The life I now live in the body, I live by faith in the Son of God, who loved me and gave himself for me.” And then, the greater the trials and tribulations, the greater our Joy will be. Mother Porphyria told me that this was a key teaching of Gerondas Gregorios of blessed memory to his spiritual children.
She then added that when we are ‘crucified’ wherever God’s Providence has placed us, then our martyrdom, and especially our prayers during our martyrdom, transfuses our crucifiers with His love. And this is such a blessing to offer to the world because sadly there are lots of people who rebel against God’s boundless Love and refuse to accept it and then share it. But the key to become such a channel for God’s Love is the will to be crucified and our gratitude for all our crosses. There is simply no other way!
God is indeed doing something wonderful. If we burn ourselves up as a candle, we become lights in the world. These are my spiritual Father’s words.
“Just as the oil and wick burn in the vigil lamp, submissive to our will, so let our souls also burn with the flame of love in all our sufferings, always being submissive to God’s will”, St. Nikolai Velimirovich.
This burning, of course, hurts, but Christ, our Bridegroom, bore the heaviest Cross of all: All our crosses plus only He knows what more …
Then Mother Porfyria moved on to some very private matters for herself and myself, which obviously I cannot share. All I can say is that her words were overpowering. A bit too powerful and profound for my spiritual level … standing in awe before the Burning Bush… We have been meeting all these years, but never before had she administered such a “deadly blow” on me! She has always been supportive and kind, wiping my tears, but this time was “only” “tough love”. Days later, and I find myself still reeling… Very tough love…
When I shared these words with my spiritual father, he told me: “Indeed tough love but which bolsters faith in an uncomfortable way”. And it was not so much her words, but the Holy Spirit through her words. Such a powerful presence! Even now, days later. Palpably so…My eyes have opened a little bit to the price our spiritual fathers and mothers “pay” when we ask for their prayers.
Please forgive me for not being able to share further our private discussion. And also forgive me if I cannot put her holy wisdom into words. Days later, I listened to a homily from Essex Monastery, which emphasises the same point: “The Taste of Death is a Prelude to Resurrection Life” How Elders burn themselves up to offer light and “how their spiritual children can make them prophets [ie. prophetic lights] with their holy obedience”, in Saint Sophrony’s own words. But I repeat, it is one thing to just listen to these holy words, and another thing the holiness of the speaker to be transfused to your heart and nous. “… and a great multitude of people … came to hear Him and be healed of their diseases … for power went out of Him and healed them all” (Luke 6: 17-19).
One thing I can certainly share is Mother Porfyria’s insistence on the power of the Psalter in spiritual warfare, which she also stressed at a group discussion with the faithful, at the monastery courtyard, shortly after our private discussion: “The Psalms of the prophet David – the sacred Psalter – are an age old weapon, an effective cure against fear, terror, and demonic forces.”
Mother Porfyria’s insistence on the power of the Psalter, reminded me of another homily, by Metropolitan Neophytos of Morfu this time, about a holy ascetic of our times, Elder Theodoros the cave-dweller from Agiofarango, Crete (†2016), about the power of the Psalter:
“If you were to ask me to tell you what I learned after so many years in the desert, I would simply answer this: the power of the Psalter. If I were to start my life over, I would struggle to do one thing: memorize the Psalter. This is the womb of noetic prayer. This is the fertile soil where the seed of prayer thrives. It scourges the demons. When I was reading the Psalter during my vigils, a demon came, roaring like a wild boar in my ear, especially when I said the verse, “Let God arise and let his enemies be scattered, and let those who hate him flee before him…” (Ps 68:1 (67 LXX)) and the verse that says, “…for You are my Lord and my God”. He was in a rage, grabbing me by the throat and choking me. He tried to mess up my words so that I wouldn’t say it.”
Saint Paisios of Mount Athos reveals a similar experience of his about the power of the Psalter:
“How much consolation I find with the Psalter! That hour and a half when I read the Psalter, I see it as the most positive help to the world… The Psalter is divinely inspired, it was written with divine illumination, this is why it is so potent, so deep in meaning… With the Psalter I feel like rejoicing…I was pounding the devil with a cannon. During the day I pounded him with the Psalter, at night with prayer.”https://www.orthodoxwitness.org/the-power-of-the-psalter
Mother Porphyria also urged the faithful that flocked around her to cense, ie. offer incense to, not only our icons, immediate environment and people near us, but also God’s creation!, those afar, our families at school, our colleagues at work, our families and friends away, all over the world … She told us that is what Fathers have told her and insisted on this. So, we must sense and cense … since before we offer incense we must sense them.
If we burn ourselves up as a candle, we become lights in the world.
What I find most moving, though, are not her words to me or to all the faithful huddling up near her, but the prayer and the Holy Spirit she transfused us through her words.
Like the other sister with a charisma from God at Panorama Dormition monastery, who offered me 5 minutes of her time before I left the monastery. When she told me, for example, to focus on the Holy Liturgy “which is Everything” in Saint Sophrony’s of Essex words, or the Jesus prayer, she transfused the energy of the Jesus prayer to me, and for some hours and days after this, the Jesus prayer would not stop echoing in my heart. Likewise, when Mother Porphyria spoke to us about the power of the Psalter, she transfused this energy, and from there on, for some days, all I could do was to recite the Psalter…
St. Justin Popovich
“To be Orthodox means to have the God-man Christ constantly in your soul, to live in Him, think in Him, feel in Him, act in Him. In other words, to be Orthodox means to be a Christ-bearer and a Spirit-bearer.”
His holy presence is immediately felt upon entering the monastery gates! This Saint is St. Georgios’ Karslidis, the New Confessor of Drama, the founder and first spiritual father of the Ascension Monastery. A bit exhausted after the long drive, off we rush to kneel before his relics and venerate them. … Rush! Waste no more time! “The doors are not yet shut; the bridegroom hears you”. St. Basil the Great
“Take off your shoes”
Hundreds and thousands of the faithful, all these years, especially since his canonisation in 2008, have knelt before him, to seek comfort in life’s trials and tribulations. So many miracles are happening and are being recorded every day!
“Take off your shoes”
Next, we kneel at Gerondissa Akylina‘s grave. Saint Paisios characterized her as “Gerondissa of Gerondisses; ie. Abbess of Abbesses” and Saint Porphyrios of Kausokalyvite called her “Cherub with golden wings”. Her canonisation is expected to take place soon and her relics are now displayed inside the Ascension Church, next to those of St.George Karslides, for veneration too.
So many contemporary Saints and spiritual Fathers and Mothers have blessed her diaconate: Saint Paisios, +Gerondas Iosif Vatopedi, +Gerondas Gavriil Dionysiatis, +Gerondas Gerasimos Mikragiannanitis, +Gerondas Theofilos (Lydia), Elder Efraim of Arizona, establishing her prayer rule, +Elder Georgios Kapsanis Gregoriou, +Elder Aimilianos, Saint Porfyrios, Mother Nikodemi-Ormylia monastery, +Mother Fevronia-Dormition Panorama monastery, to name just a few.
(Mother Porfyria’s obedience for a decade was the exclusive care of the elderly and frail Gerondissa Akylina).
“Take off your shoes.”
The nuns welcome us, show us to our rooms, offer us a meal, in the separate guests’ house, and leave us to rest before Vespers. Yet, what seems most urgent is the need to repent. Now, on the interpretation of the Greek Fathers of the Burning Bush, St. Gregory of Nyssa for example, shoes, made from the skins of dead animals, signify the deadness of repetition, boredom, inattentiveness.
“And the angel of the LORD appeared unto him in a flame of fire out of the midst of a bush: and he looked, and, behold, the bush burned with fire, and the bush was not consumed. … And he [God] said, Draw not nigh hither: put off thy shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy ground.” (Exodus 3:2-5 KJV )
“Take off your shoes.”
Start afresh, free yourself from what is lifeless, from enslavement to the trivial, the mechanical, the repetitive. Shake off the deadness of boredom. Wake up. Come to yourself. Open your spiritual eyes. Cleanse the doors of your perception. Look and see! Listen!
“Take off your shoes.”
The monastic triptych of “prayer, study and work” (Abba Isaiah of Scetis ascetic discourses) is observed here too, but with a greater austerity than in other monasteries, probably because of the +Gerondas’ and +Gerondissa’s relics’ omnipresence and the specific typikon they follow, at the inspiration of +St. Efraim of Arizona. A variation of this salvific triptych is “prayer, attention and work”. This triptych offers balance, healing, consolation. There are 38 sisters in this monastery, and lots of young novices and postulants, pre-novices. Nuns come and go busy bees, novices and postulants race all round, pilgrims flock, beautiful gardens and fields surround us, yet everything fades before my eyes. My heart has been struck, smitten (Psalm 102:4)
“Take off your shoes.”
In the evening, I text to Gerondissa Porfyria to plead for a meeting, even for 5 minutes, anytime, before we leave the next day. The day is coming to a close. We retire to our cells. I pray and wait …
Gerondissa Porfyria’s balcony is the one with the lanterns
St. Gregory of Nyssa
“Sandaled feet cannot ascend that height where the light of truth is seen, but the dead and earthly covering of skins, which was placed around our nature at the beginning … must be removed from the feet of the soul.”
St. George Karslides
“God cares for everyone. Despair is in effect a lack of faith.”
The Holy Monastery of Ascension of the Savior located in the village of Taxiarches (Sipsa)
St. George Karslides, the Founder of Sipsa monastery
Amazing! After 8 years (originally posted 9 Nov. 2016)! What memories and tears now that I am planning a return of the prodigal…
“… Gerondissa Porphyria has always been so full of love and humility, always ready to sacrifice her ease, her rest and sleep, everything for her ‘neighbour! How many times has she consoled me in the trials and tribulations of my life! Always by my side, always! How many times has she offered a shoulder to cry on and precious, practical counsel! Her prayerful presence is intensely, intimately felt even thousands of miles away, here at the UK, and her smile warms my heart. Oh, just look at her smile in the photographs below with a pilgrim at the monastery and imagine the rays of the sun warming your shoulders after a rainy, cold day! How blessed am I to have such a spiritual mother by my side! Over the years I got better acquainted with the friendly and hospitable nuns there and the pilgrims and the faithful who regularly visit this monastery. St. Georgios’ holy presence is immediately felt upon entering the monastery gate, and there is always a queue at his tomb where his spiritual children kneel before their spiritual father, now in Heaven, to ask for his spiritual guidance and to seek comfort in life’s trials and tribulations. …”(9 Nov, 2016)
All this and so much more! Nothing has changed! Only deeper and deeper in the Burning Bush.
Nothing had prepared me for what happened today at the monastery! Literally the last minute before I departed! I am still in tears of gratitude and trying to digest the Burning Bush Our Lord and Panagia have granted me to experience.
The day started as usual with very early Midnight Office, Matins and Holy Liturgy. The chanting of the sisters was most beautiful and the faithful in the church were praying with tears and prostrations to the Theotokos. Soon the church was full with lots of people with health conditions or impairments, all pouring out their hearts in prayer for a miracle. “For an angel went down at a certain season into the pool, and troubled the water: whosoever then first after the troubling of the water stepped in was made whole of whatsoever disease he had.” (John 5:4)
Why was my heart so lukewarm? What common did I have with all these fervent disciples? My pilgrimage was soon coming to an end, after the formal Sunday meal at the monastery trapeza (ie. refectory), at the end of the Holy Liturgy, and coffee offered to the monastery guests, in other words in about 3 hours. My days here have indeed been a time of healing, but how did this compare to the thousands of miles and long hours, nearly a day, some of my brethren and sisters had travelled to make it here?
I tried to make the best of my few remaining hours and spend quite a lot of time with the Pennsylvania brother sharing amazing experiences of his with Geronda Efraim of Arizona of blessed memory. We decided to stay in touch since by God’s Providence we both arrived and were leaving the monastery the same days and hours. I prayed and watched other pilgrims who had sat down in corners with the sisters and were talking privately. I had not made such a “connection” with any of the sisters for all their warm hospitality. This felt a bit sad and disappointing but may it be blessed.
The meal at the Trapeza was very formal and characterized by prayer, reverence and serenity, as the process of the meal is a ritual. The readings were on the Gospel reading for today, esp. the line “The Lord said, “As you wish that men would do to you, do so to them. … Be merciful, even as your Father is merciful”, and they were from St Gregory Palamas and St Paisios the Athonite. At the end, Gerondissa Melani spoke for a few minutes, highlighting a few points, and then we were ceremoniously escorted outside by the sisters, to the monastery gardens.
I was about to thank the “arhondarissa”, the sister in charge of the guests, for their hospitality during my stay, and proceed to the parking lot, outside of the monastery gates, when I heard a sister calling out my name! I turned around and lo, a sister approached me, wishing to introduce herself! It was Sister I.
Yesterday evening, I had indeed made a request to the arhondarissa to meet Sister I, if that was possible, at the persistent recommendation of a friend, who knows this sister for decades, but nothing had happened, so I assumed that the sister was just too busy to meet me.
Sister I. was indeed a revelation. In just a few minutes, she conducted a thorough spiritual surgical procedure on me and started gently to guide me!I have no words for what happened during these few minutes together. Our 10’ discussion started in light rain and ended in bright sunshine! But it was her eyes that were most radiant and her smile most bright than the sun! Her eyes and smile reminded me of an elder who has charisma from God: Gerondas Efthymios, St Paisios successor, a Geronda that I briefly met at Gerondas Gregorios funeral. Radiant eyes, bright smile, the burning bush!
Back to Sister I., we first got introduced to each other and soon started discussing missionary work at the UK, as Sister I. has been visiting the country, engaging in like activity, and Essex monastery in particular. She is the spiritual daughter of St. Sophronios the Athonite, the founder of Essex monastery, if I got that right. She certainly cited lots of his sayings and spiritual pedagogy. Sister I. has been involved in helping British people discover and reclaim their lost Orthodox heritage, their Saints, and return to the Orthodox Church.
I spoke to her about my recent visit to a parish at the UK, small but compact, with lots of catechumens and inquirers, and told her that the love and holiness I experienced at their church services and gatherings made me feel like I was in the Acts of the Apostles, in those early church communities. She agreed, having experienced similar cases, and we were both reminded of Saint Arsenios of Paros †1877 prophecy that “the Church in The British Isles will only begin to grow when she begins to again venerate her own Saints”
Soon though, our discussion moved to another level and felt more like prayer than a mere exchange of opinions. How piercing were her spiritual X- Rays! “He told me everything I ever did.” (John 4:39) I have never experienced something of the like with a “mere stranger”! Sister I. felt like a Gerondissa who has charisma from God! (*) She revealed to me how I should walk together with the Lord. A real Mother! Among other things very personal she insisted on the Jesus Prayer and Divine Liturgy, which is Everything! I need to pray and reflect on all she revealed to me, and certainly discuss it with my spiritual father to see if he blesses her words.
Sister I. promised to spend more time with me next time we meet in God’s Providence. She told me we could do an obedience together, pray and be open to what God wants us to do together then. I certainly want to meet this Sister again. I have no words to express my gratitude and thanksgiving to our Lord. What an experience! What a great event of my life, the meeting with this Sister! “It was given to me,the least of men, to live approximately the same experience”. Indeed, He has kept the good wine until now.”
“The greatest event of the life of our holy elder, as he himself related and wrote, was his meeting with his holy Father, Silouan. The historical fact of this spiritual bond had definitive importance for the later spiritual development and theology of Saint Sophrony, who write: ‘By the prayers of Saint Silouan, I, too, was placed in the same spiritual perspective … It was given to me,the least of men, to live approximately the same experience.’” Archimandrite Zachariah, The Seven Basic Points of the Theology of Saint Sophrony
(*) My spiritual father told me that he prefers the term “she [Sister I.] / he [Gerondas Efthymios] has charisma from God. In order not to confuse her/him with those Protestant evangelicals who claim to be charismatic and who roll around on the floor” (his words).
“My spirit seeks You early in the morning, O God, for Your commandments are a light upon the earth”.
At 5 am, Matins begins, and everybody literally rushes to the church under the stars. “To the Theotokos let us run now most fervently”.
This monastery has 3 dedications to the Theotokos: the first is on The Mother of God of the Life-giving Spring or Life-giving Font (Greek: Ζωοδόχος Πηγή), on bright Friday; the second dedication is on the Dormition of the Theotokos, on August 15th; and its third dedication is on Panagia Eleftherotria, ie. Theotokos the Liberator, on the Feast of the Holy Protection, October 28th. This third dedication is the most important for the monastery and apparently for all the Greek nation. It is true that the piety of the faithful all over the world have adorned the Virgin Mary with thousands of names, but this particular one I have personally not encountered in any other nation.
Most Holy Theotokos was declared a Great General, Τη Υπερμάχω Στρατηγώ, by the Greeks of Byzantium in 626 AD, to protect Constantinople from the combined siege by the Sassanid Persians, Avars and allied Slavs. After numerous sieges and attacks in the centuries to follow, culminating in the fall of Constantinople from the Ottomans, Panagia then became the “Eleftherotria”, the hope of thousands of Greek faithful and especially of Greek neomartyrs, suffering martyrdom under the Muslim yoke for more than 400 years.
Tradition holds that it was this Great General who freed the Greek Nation from the Turkish yoke in 1821 and protected the Greeks from the attack of the Italians in 1940 AD. This is why the Feast of “Αγία Σκέπη”, the Holy Protection of the Theotokos, was moved from Oct 1st to Oct 28, theOhi Day, also referred to as the “Day of No”, the day when the Greek prime minister rejected an ultimatum given by the Italian dictator Benito Mussolini during World War II.
Panagia is, of course, the Protector of all Orthodox Church and nations, and a Mother to us all, liberating us not so much from our visible enemies, but from the invisible ones, ie. our passions, our sins, ultimately from the evil one. Pilgrims from all over the world tearfully share miracles and pray to Her here, in Her monastery, for liberty from their concerns, worries, thoughts, illnesses, for Liberty of their souls first, ultimately from sin.
Beneath thy compassion, We take refuge, O Mother of God: do not despise our petitions in time of trouble, but rescue us from dangers, only pure one, only blessed one. (1)
Holy Liturgy finishes at 8:30 and a light meal is awaiting us, before we all head to our obediences. Today, to our surprise, ironing, and not ivy pruning, is our obedience: ironing piles upon piles of the sisters’ and pilgrims‘ bedsheets. May it be blessed. Again, long hours of manual prayer await us, accompanied by the Jesus prayer. Glory to God for all things.
At long last, break time and a walk in the monastery gardens and lush forests! Once outside of the cells and the various workshops of iconography and embroidery, one marvels at the beauty of trees especially and flowers everywhere. Nature is enveloped in the Holy Spirit.
Most Holy Theotokos’ presence and protection is felt most powerfully in Her monastery gardens and forests, and there are votive offerings, “tamata” for Her everywhere.
Enwrapped in such beauty and holiness, immersed in the Theotokos, one forgets tiredness, drowsiness, even hunger, but the semantron summons us again, this time for our midday meal of Greek Briam, a traditional Mediterranean recipe that uses all homegrown summer vegetables —potatoes, zucchini, aubergines, red onions, and tomatoes—and bakes them together in olive oil.
Siesta, quiet time follows, then Great Vespers, Compline, and another, very light, fasting meal, since most of the pilgrims are preparing for Holy Communion. Cars and pilgrims keep arriving in large numbers, especially now that weekend has started. At the sunset, pilgrims and monastics, all together, in small groups, share precious fellowship time in the monastery gardens. Even at the close of the day, Sisters continue to be amazing busy-bees with their obediences, errands, charity and gracious hospitality.
In anticipation of tomorrow’s guests 😀 At weekends, the numbers of the faithful at the monastery services increases exponentially!
The blessing of Gerondissa Melani seals our day and we retreat to hesychia in our cells. How richly, orderly, deeply and blessedly time flows in a monastery! So different to the hasty, stressful, exhausting, chaotic perception of time in our lives.
To the Theotokos, let us run now most fervently
Saint Porphyrios of Kavsokalyva on the Panagia:
“Our Church highly honours our Panagia. I very much love our Panagia. When I was young on the Holy Mountain I very much adored her. I had a small icon of the Panagia under my pillow. Morning and night I embraced her. I lived with her night and day. Whatever happened to me, I resorted to her. What can I tell you? She is better than a mother. There was nothing else I wanted more. She had everything”.
(1) The oldest prayer we know of dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The earliest text of this hymn was found in a Coptic Christmas liturgy of the third century. It is written in Greek and dates to approximately 250 A.D. It is used in the Coptic liturgy to this day, as well as in the Orthodox, Ambrosian, and Latin liturgies. Orthodox Christianity Then and Now.
The time has come! The day has finally arrived! After a long, tiring month full of all kinds of jobs and obediences —other than a blessed Synaxis at Holy Cross, UK —and an especially hard time last week, I have finally arrived at the first monastery in my pilgrimage “list”: the Dormition of the Theotokos monastery at the Panorama suburbs of Thessaloniki.
This most beautiful monastery is dedicated to Panagia Elefterotria, the Liberator. It was founded in 1957, has 60 nuns and Melania is their Mother Superior.
Last August, we visited this monastery together with Father J. but our visit was very brief …
I remember so little from our visit last year. I cannot find my way anywhere around. I have arrived so upset, sad and stressed out. Yet here at the monastery, there is an hesychia and a fullness of the Holy Spirit that is most healing.
The hospitality and kindness of the sisters is felt in their warm smiles and their radiant, kind, prayerful eyes. They offer me breakfast, ask me to wash the guests’ dishes, then take me to my room and I start meeting pilgrims from all over the world!
Talking about hospitality, please have a close look at this notice in my cell:
I translate the last two paragraphs: “To our dear guests: A humble request: … You can leave a pair of your own bedsheets if you are a frequent guest. Please do not keep the monastery bedsheets, if you are not considering returning to our monastery within a fortnight”. “Returning to our monastery within a fortnight”!
Everything is happening very fast and with as few words as possible. The sisters work hard and very fast, they multitask, they are such bright busy-bees, yet more importantly they constantly pray. They had to accommodate nearly 300 (!) pilgrims during Dormition Fast in August.
My first obedience, upon arrival, is ivy pruning. I sense that this will be my obedience all these days, until I leave, as the monastery fence is a very long, miles long fence. The other pilgrims from other countries cannot suffer the heat and the sun. As for me, after all this prolonged, all summer training of 40-45 Celsius here, this 30+ C heat and sun feels a bit autumn-like breeze!
So, I prune and pray and hope my sadness will fade away since this is what my spiritual father reassured me and is praying about. I always love to work in nature, yet even here my thoughts, my logismoi still bother me and interfere. But I have faith in my Gerondas’ words. I am under obedience, he will stand by my side on Judgment Day before our Lord, surely he knows better.
Hours pass under the sun with pruning and the Jesus prayer. A little tortoise seems confused with our pruning and we have gently to carry her across the road to greener paths. Glory to God! Little by little, my sorrow begins to evaporate with this heat, sun and prayers. So Gerondas was right, again! “A disciplined schedule, manual labour, study and prayer” (Abba Isaiah of Scetis Ascetic Discourses), and this blessed monastic community did work miracles for my pusillanimity and faintheartedness.
No time for logismoi, thoughts, moaning, worries, fear, sorrow and self-pity. This is the time, καιρός, for metanoia, obedience, faith, and joyful, godly, bright sorrow, “Charmolipi” (an old Greek work made up of ‘chara’ (joy) and ‘lipi’ (sadness). There is no equivalent word in English; it means a feeling of happiness and sadness at the same time.
10 Godly sorrow brings repentance that leads to salvation and leaves no regret, but worldly sorrow brings death. (2 Corinthians 7:10)
One has literally moved next to the monastery to be there all the time, and the other one does not mind driving 6 hours to be at the church services and the fathers of the monastery! This pilgrim was baptised in a Roman Catholic Church due to his Orthodox parents “carelessness and ignorance” — the pilgrim’s own words— but our Lord found him, guided him to His Church, and he is now on pilgrimage together with his mother! Glory to God for all things! All these Elder Efraim’s monasteries, 20 in total, I believe, in USA and Canada, are all following the Cenobitic way of monastic life (“Cenobitic” is derived from the Greek word “Keenovio” which means “common way of life”) therefore consisting of common work, common meals, and common rest periods.
After Little Compline, a small fasting dinner and then hesychia. My sorrow has been healed and joy fills my heart. What a transformation in just a few hours! My spiritual father was right: “The time there will be a time of healing”. All this prayer and few idle words, manual labour and study, have wrought a miracle.
Abba Isaiah of Scetis
“Observe these three things: your manual labour, your study, and your prayer. Think to yourself daily, “I only have this day to do something in this world” and you won’t sin before God.“
Elder Gregorios of blessed memory, founder and spiritual father of the Forerunner’s Monastery at Metamorfosi, Chalkidiki, together with Saint Paisios and Abbess Euphemia of blessed memory
Dear brothers and sisters, Christ is in our midst! A blessed new ecclesiastical year to all! I have just received the news of a new obedience for the coming ecclesiastical year, and you will see how prophetic the article below was, back in August, to God’s economia, divine providence for me. The new obedience is a number of pilgrimages to, and resulting diaries of my stays at, various traditional, coenobitic women’s monasteries all over Greece, and abroad, and it will start end of September. Something like The Adventures of a Pilgrim in the 21st century… Please forgive my boldness. I know that I cannot compare; it is just to give you the idea. What follows is a summary of what I was studying a month ago, before the actual invitation arrived. Your prayers and your thoughts
Spiritual experience as basis of spiritual guidance
Recently (Aug 2024) I read an article about traditional, coenobitic women’s monasteries. I was impressed with their long list and history and conducted further research. The ‘secret’ which becomes apparent for their longevity, stability and spiritual wealth is their obedience to a Gerondas. Certainly, all nuns owe obedience to their Mother, the Abbess, but what emerges in this study is the necessity also of an obedience to a spiritual Father. In the majority also of these cases, a holy Elder, already canonised or about to be canonised. Let me offer some examples.
Saint Gerasimos the New on Kefallinia, who lived for quite a long time on the Holy Mountain, founded what was, for the time, a pioneering women’s coenobium, the ‘New Jerusalem’, at Omala, Kefallinia.
New Jerusalem, Keffalinia and St Gerasimos the New
Saint Anthimos in Kefallinia founded six monasteries, of which three were women’s: Ayia Paraskevi in Lepeda, Kefallinia, Our Lady the Portaïtissa (Gatekeeper) on Astypalaia and the Live-Receiving Spring in Sikinos.
Our Lady the Portaïtissa (Gatekeeper) on Astypalaia and Saint Anthimos
Saint Pachomios Arelas, the elder of Saint Nektarios and of Saint Anthimos in Chios founded the Convent of Saint Constantine.
Convent of Saint Constantine in Chios and Saint Pachomios
Saint Nektarios of Pentapolis, the saint of the 20th century, founded the women’s monastery of the Holy Trinity on Aegina, on the model of the Convent on Chios.
Aegina, Holy Trinity monastery and St Nektarios
Elder Daniïl Katounakiotis was the spiritual guide of Abbess Theodosia and, with her, all the nuns of the Monastery of Kekhrovouni on Tinos.
St Pelagia’s monastery, Kehrovouni, Tina’s and Elder Daniel Katounakiotid
Saint Anthimos of Chios founded the Convent of Our Lady our Help in Frangomahalas.
Saint Savvas in Kalymnos became the Elder of the Holy Monastery of All Saints on Kalymnos.
All Saints’ Monastery, Kalymnos and Saint Savas
Elder Amfilohios Makris founded the women’s monasteries of the Annunciation, ‘Beloved Mother’, on Patmos, the Eleousa (Merciful) on Kalymnos, the Annunciation on Ikaria and Saint Minas on Aegina.
St Amphilohios’ Monastery, Patmos
Elder Filotheos Zervakos founded two women’s monasteries on Paros, the Myrtidiotissa, Thapsana and Saint Filotheos.
Myrtidiotissa, Paros and St Filotheos Zervakos
Elder Ieronymos Simonopetritis, who lived for many years at the dependency of the Ascension in Vyrona, Attica, tonsured and guided hundreds of nuns.
Elder Iosif the Hesychast sent many nuns to women’s monasteries and guided them either in person or by letter.
Odegetria Virgin Mary Monastery and Elder Iosif the HesychastDormition of the Theotokos Monastery in Panorama, Thessaloniki
Saint George Karslidis founded the Holy Monastery of the Ascension at Sipsa.
Sipsa, Holy Ascension Monastery and Saint Karslidis
Elder Kornilios Marmarinos directed the women’s Monastery of the Protecting Veil at Halkios, Chios.
Elder Athanasios Hamakiotis founded the monastery of the Faneromeni (Our Lady made Manifest) in Rodopolis.
Saint Porfyrios Kavsokalyvitis founded the Monastery of the Transfiguration at Milesi and directed the spiritual life of many nuns.
St Porphyrios monastery, Milesi
Saint Païsios the Athonite was linked to the nuns at the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian at Souroti and guided their spiritual lives.
St Paisios monastery, Souroti
Elder Efsevios Yannakakis founded two women’s monasteries, the Entry of the Mother of God in Markopoulos, Attica, and Saint John the Theologian at Verino, on Aigio.
Dormition Monastery, Mikrokastro
Elder Mitrofanis directed the spiritual life of the monasteries of Our Lady Rovelista and the Lower Mother of God in Arta, as well as the Life-Receiving Spring at Areia in Nafplio.
Elder Damaskinos directed the Holy Monastery Saint John at Makryno, in Megara.
Elder Polykarpos founded the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian at Souroti and the Monastery ‘Our Lady of Evros’ in Alexandroupolis.
Annunciation monastery, Ormylia and Elder AimilianosOrmylia, the largest Orthodox coenobitic monastery in GreeceOrmylia
Of course, there were also many other Elders, but the sheer size of the volume has made it impossible to include their biographies. There are also some who are still alive but who are recognized by the complement of the Church as charismatic Elders who have founded and guided the spiritual life of women’s monasteries, such as Elder Nektarios Marmarinos, Elder Aimilianos Simonopetritis, Elder Efraim in Arizona, Elder Filotheos Karakallinos, Metropolitan Athanasios of Lemesos, Elder Alexios Xenofontinos and many others.
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Why so? Why do women monasteries need a spiritual Father, in addition to their spiritual Mother, to practise obedience?Please pay close attention to what the Elders testify:
“It often been observed that some nuns find it difficult to express certain troubling thoughts to the Abbess, and that they find it easier to do so to the Elder. Of course, it’s obligatory for the Abbess to agree to hear the thoughts of all the nuns, but in such a case we see that the Elder can be of help in the resolving the situation to the spiritual benefit of the nun concerned.
Besides, the Elder is more easily able to reconcile and placate the nuns regarding any friction or pettiness which disturbs the interpersonal communion of the nuns, especially when certain passions are prevalent which tend to appear more often in the feminine nature, such as envy, jealousy, complaining and disparagement. In other words, the Elder has this advantage not only from a spiritual, but also a psychological and biological point of view.
In recent times, many devout but inexperienced priest monks and even married priests have had women gather round them who have wanted to enter the monastic life and so these men have undertaken to found a monastery and to guide the new nuns. Their aim may be worthy. But such a task should be undertaken in the proper, traditional way. The Orthodox monastic tradition tells us that an Elder must perform this service selflessly and be, at the same time a teacher, an experienced doctor and overseer of souls, a good shepherd, and a much-wanted father for the persons who have been entrusted to him. Women’s monasteries which have had the support of such Elders have known spiritual progress and vitality, and continue to do so.”
We hope there’ll be a dynamic continuation of the traditional position of the Elder within modern, women’s, Orthodox monasticism and pray that all the Elders and Abbesses will be enlightened and fortified by the Lord so that they can carry out the elevated and selfless task which has been assigned to them by Divine Providence. For the nuns, we pray that they may observe their monastic vows punctiliously, so that they can make their way towards sanctification unfalteringly and in safety and can experience Christ the Bridegroom ‘dwelling and walking within their hearts’. Amen
On the left is Monk Zosimas (+2010) with Elder Simon Arvanitis (1901-1988) on his deathbed blessing the child of a spiritual child of his.
*** Incl. St Nektarios’ prophesy about Elder Simon, and St Porfyrios and St Iakovos Tsalikis words for him.***
Panagiotis, Elder Simon’s baptismal name, was a man of unbelievable physical and spiritual strength. He grew up helping his large family by working as an itinerant greengrocer or as a laborer on estates. Endowed with great muscular strength, from the age of thirteen he was lifting sacks weighing 80 kilograms or more. His favorite occupation when he rested, was the study of the Gospel. On Saturdays, as soon as he finished work, he went to the chapels for prayer and study, abstaining entirely from all food, until Sunday evening, when he returned to his house and ate.
Panagiotis visited Mount Athos a few times. When he was young he liked to go on long journeys. Once he started from Athens and walked to Ouranoupolis. There he put his clothes on his back and swam to Mount Athos!
His visit to Kavsokalyva of Mount Athos at the age of 16 was to seal his life. There the Fathers were gathered and waiting for Metropolitan Nektarios Kephalas to arrive, our well-known Saint Nektarios [the Bishop of Pentapolis and Wonderworker], who would be visiting them.
When he arrived, one by one the Fathers approached him reverently and received his blessing. After the Fathers did this, the pilgrims followed. In his turn, Panagiotis also went to receive the blessing of the Saint. Saint Nektarios then took him by the hand and said to him prophetically:
“You, my child, will become a spiritual father and save souls. To the man who will come to you and speak of his sin for the first time, though he did not know that what he did was a sin, be lenient and do not let him go. But if he comes and continues in his sin, be strict with him and rebuke him.”
The prophecy of Saint Nektarios took place when the fullness of time came. Panagiotis later became Father Simon, who indeed saved many souls.
Saint Nektarios and Elder Simon
Other contemporary Saints such as St Iakovos Tsalikis also came to know and admire Fr Simon’s selflessness, wisdom and love, which have inspired countless struggling Christians during his life and after his blessed repose. St. Porphyrios had said of him that no one else had such faith as Elder Simon’s!
Hesychastic years in the cave of Saint Gregorios followed, until the then Metropolitan made Panagiotis a monk in Agios Charalambos and gave him the name Simon. He longed to be a cave-dwelling hermit, and continually begged this from the Monastery elders. The elders prayed for a week to Panagia to determine the correct path. After a week, Simon was told: “The Holy Mother informed us that you must return to the world which needs you to be led to salvation”.
In obedience, he was ordained a priest-monk and started serving local parishes and chapels at Athens suburbs, and later the monastery of St.Panteleimon, Mt.Penteli, which he founded.
St Panteleimon Monastery, Panteleimon
One of the first monks there, Zosimas, had a phobia of the dark. Fr Simon prayed over him and allowed him to sleep in his own cell while he, the elder, slept on the roof of the cell. Zosimas had a dream that the devil appeared and said: “Your Elder is up on the roof and I can’t come inside”. With the prayers of Fr Simon, he was healed.
One of the most well known miracles of Elder Simon is the miracle of the huge hare and the starving pilgrims in 1943. That time, he was appointed a Spiritual Father at the Monastery of the Transfiguration, near which there is a small chapel, dedicated to the All-Great Taxiarches. In 1943, on the eve of the festival, a large number of people had flocked for the celebration, at a time when hunger oppressed the people and the idea of food at a festival seemed like a dream. The only edible thing there was a sack of onions. However, Father Simon, taking pity on the hungry people, in imitation of Christ our Lord, and with unshakable faith in God’s providence, ordered them to clean all the onions and immersed himself in prayer. And suddenly, before the astonished eyes of the pilgrims, a huge hare came down from the mountainside and entered the kitchen all alone, on his own, offering himself for their meal! And the pilgrims, just like in the miracle of the multiplication of loaves, “all ate and were satisfied”, and there were plenty left overs.
What a “shocking” miracle! Poor huge hare! Even more shocking for me and many people who never eat animal’s meat. But these times were very trying ones and hundreds of people were literally dying from starvation every day! See footnote below*
Fr Simon reposed in 1988. On the day of his burial, the grace of God was evident. The Metropolitan approached to kiss his body and the elder lifted his hand for the Metropolitan to kiss! What a blessed Elder and yet another revelation to us during our recent pilgrimage to Athens/ Aegina! Christ is Risen!
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* One of the greatest calamities of the Greek people during the years of the Nazi Occupation was the terrible famine of 1941-1942 which claimed the lives of at least 300,000 people and caused serious illness in approximately 1,500,000. The spectre of hunger soon began to dominate. Children were among his first victims. They wandered around hungry, ragged and barefoot looking in the garbage to find something to eat. Bones, fruit skins and food scraps were the only food for many. On the sidewalks, many fainted from hunger began to fall, while the weakest organisms succumbed to the fatal… In the few ration centers the daily menu was as follows: pumpkins 100 drams, tomatoes 3 drams and onions 8 drams (without oil). Note that the oka had 400 drams and was equivalent to 1,282 grams. It is estimated that at least 200,000 contracted tuberculosis during the Nazi Occupation. 300,000 died of starvation and 1,500,000 became ill from malnutrition. The total calories from this “snack” were 290, of which only 200 were usable by the human body. Nonetheless, 500,000 infants, 500,000 toddlers, 1,200,000 children and many teenagers who needed the scrapbooks were fed on this 200 calories daily menu for months! On the streets, the chilling and macabre sight of the dead being carried for burial in two-wheeled wooden carts and with a cleaning cart began to appear. The dead were piled up, first by the tens and later by the hundreds in cemeteries unburied, as there were not enough undertakers to bury them! The unburied dead from starvation soon became a very serious problem. In streets, squares and courtyards of houses, people were dying every day and their bodies remained there, where they collapsed, until a Municipal cart passed by to collect them and take them to the cemeteries. But there was a problem there too: the undertakers were few, they too were exhausted from hunger and the dead were many. Others left their dead relatives outside hospitals and others outside cemeteries, stealing the dead’s identity documents in order to appropriate the pension they were entitled to. Protothema, my translation.
For more miracles of , go to Orthodox Christianity Then And Nowhere and here .
Last week, on the eve of St Panteleimon’s Feast, I arrived at his monastery at the suburbs of Vlasti, and 33km away from the bustling heart of Kozani, to help the monastic synodeia there for the Feast.
This was my first time there and the surrounding landscape scenery at 1650 m altitude was stunning. The landscape altered among numerous fields with sparse cedar, lammergeyer, oak and pine forests. At the higher positions, sheer rocks and alpine fields add a particular mountainous character. St Panteleimon’s misty and mystic monastery dates back to the 15th century and is almost permanently capped by gray clouds and fog. It is by far the monastery at the highest altitude all over Greece, Mount Athos included.
For stunning views of this mystic and misty monastery and the surrounding landscape, go to this YouTube link:
Except for the incomparable beauty, this area is also known for its ecological characteristics, as it constitutes a biotope of bears and other predatory birds such as the war eagles, haggard eagles, snake eagles and the bullfinches. Vegetation is also lush, with a great variety of wild flowers and herbs. This travel/ pilgrimage destination indeed beckons not only pilgrims, but travelers seeking tranquility and untouched beauty.
For video excerpts of the church services these two days (Vespers and Matins- Holy Liturgy), go the following YouTube link:
Though I normally share with you church services highlights, everyday Saints stories and elders’ spiritual encounters from my pilgrimages, this time I would like to introduce to you two local customs during the Feast, which I have encountered only in this area: the Horse Riders’ Tama (votive offering) to St Panteleimon and the Tranos Choros (Grand / Magnificent Dance).
The Horse Riders Tama to St Panteleimon
On the Feast day, the inhabitants of the nearest village Vlasti, as well as friends and relatives all over the world, who come specifically for St Panteleimon’s and later Panagia’s Feast on August 15, prepare their horses (some may borrow), and climb up to the monastery of Agios Panteleimon on Mount Muriki, so that they can attend church and honour the Saint.
After the Divine Liturgy, the horse riders descend from the beautiful, meandering paths of the mountain, to the center of Vlasti, a nearby picturesque village, just 4 km away from the monastery, nested in the mids of alpine landscape and lushy fields, and sitting at an elevation of 1200m. Background music accompanies them all the way unto the monastery and back to the village feast.
Again, for video excerpts of the horse riders’ tama, and the village feast visit the following two YouTube links:
The Tranos Choros (Tranls. Grand / Magnificent Dance)
This dance is a traditional community event based on the dual elements of «song – dance» (a capella, ie. vocals and dance without the accompaniment of musical instruments). It bears a ritual character, passed on from one generation to the next. The term Tranos denotes the universal participation of the local community in its performance and its great importance to the community.
The dance is performed not only by permanent residents of the community, but also by Vlatsiotes all over the world, who, although are no longer inhabitants in their land of origin, make a point of returning to visit every summer during these feasts, with the aim of reconnecting with their village and reconfirming their group identity.
The Tranos Choros (Grand/ Magnificent Dance) is danced annually in Vlasti in the afternoon of July 27, day of the feast of Saint Panteleimon, as well as on the two days of the feast of the Dormition of our Lady Theotokos, on August 15 and 16.
The Tranos dance in Vlasti has its own rules. These rules define what time the dancers gather, their hierarchical position in the circle, the dance pattern, the order of songs, the specific dance motifs.
Hierarchy, based on gender and age, is a characteristic of its structure. The men lead the dance, positioned in order of seniority, those wearing traditional dress first . Age is again the criterion for each woman’s position in the dance circle. In the case of women of the same age, the criterion is their wedding date. Traditionally, the leading dancer is the eldest, an expert on both songs and rhythm.
The dance begins at the moment when the leading dancer crosses his left foot over the right. It is a particularly symbolic move, with the leading dancer raising his left leg and holding it above the right for the dance to begin. For the Tranos dance, this move has the same role as the raising of the conductor’s baton in a symphony orchestra. The movement is accompanied by a simultaneous move of the hand holding the kerchief and the rendering of the first verse of the song.
The lead dancer is joined in song by most of the men. The lyrics are repeated by the women’s semi-chorus and the men who are last in line. This ritual dance in the minds and hearts of the locals evokes people long departed. “This place has existed and will always exist. To paraphrase the poet George Seferis, «as the pines retain the form of the wind, even when the wind has gone and is no longer there»”
Watch this communal, ritual dancing in the following two YouTube videos: